Back to Nature for two weeks in the North Cascades

Ascent of the gulley & the Finger to the Prow - Day 5

Thursday, August 16, 2001

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Raleigh Marsha Kim Ryan Matt Andrea Jim Kendra Andy James Diana

Journal entry

by Kim

Today has been a trying day. The day started beautifully with Jupiter rising with the moon. The gully caused problems for many but everyone came to the pass with a feeling of relief. But... then we looked up. The prospect of climbing the finger was exciting for some and terrifying for others. Reaching the top of the granite peak with a sense of triumph and fear

14 hours of activity. Strenuous at times. People were generally cheerful, but there were many feelings of anxiety, excitement, frustration, and nausea. We had a tough time with the gully. We were nervous for the finger. Each task attempted was completed successfully, hopefully in a renewed sense of self strength and confidence. It was a thumbs up day!

Today’s climb location by TopoZone Map

Campsite location: TopoZone Map

Photos

The gulley gulley view to the north break
The gulley we came up. View to the north Rest stop at the base of the gulley.
Top of the finger james 3 chicks break
James The ladies reach the top of the finger. Jim on top.
Panorama panorama Panorama Panorama
Panorama SE Panorama South Panorama SW
Smoke smoke
Same view south later in the day as smoke moved in, filled the valley & rained down on us.

Comments by James

It was a beautiful night sky and a delightful morning. It was an early rise and an interesting trail that petered out at times. I found the gully particularily unstable with even large rocks sliding under my feet. I wondered at times why we chose the fresh slide area rather than older slide areas where plant roots had stabilized the soil. But, when not the leader, perhaps one should follow.

I found the clearness of the morning contrasted with the smoke filled afternoon rather starkly. Sitting for a long time on the pass allowed an observance of the changing weather. There was time to do a little drawing.

Between the time for ten people to climb up, to descend and then to do a short fixed line, I was very impressed on how very difficult it would be to move an army. Or if not difficult, at least how slow it would be. Prior to this experience, I had only climbed with three on one rope and felt the delays were interminable. Occasionally, I felt I was in the military with the repeated reminders to form up or corral or not to go past this line.

Our evening campsite was majestic set on a large mass of upwelled granite, perhaps a batholith as I learned from Daniel Mathews in his Cascade-Olympic Natural History book. This book is one of the most enjoyable natural history books I have read.

Dinner was quesadillas served a bit late. The MSR stoves are proving to be durable and wonderfully cookers once you adapt to their warp drive. Individually prepared meals require a bit much effort but it is enjoyable adapting ones creativity to the environment.

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Updated 4 September 2001